Turntables are one of the more difficult audio components to pack for safe transit. Having been a dealer for many brands of tables over the past 20+ years, I know what works and what doesn’t. I have un-boxed many new tables that were packed using “factory” packing. When tables are shipped from the manufacturer, they are generally shipped with the platter and the dustcover removed and stored in recesses, that are molded into their custom made Styrofoam packing, that was designed by professionals that have researched what works and what doesn’t. Unless the original foam packing is included with a table (and it rarely is) and is intact, custom and sufficient / appropriate packing must then be made. While every turntable presents a different packing challenge, there are some basic procedures that we repeat and so far has resulted in almost flawless success. No system is “fool-proof” (even factory packaging) and there are likely a few other variations that will work equally well, maybe better, but not following these or other appropriate procedures is likely a recipe for failure.

Prior to the packing, the table is prepped for packing. If it is a “single play” type table, the platter is removed. The platter can weigh anywhere from a pound or two to as much as 10 or 20 lbs. As a “static” load this isn’t too bad, but when being dropped from a stack of boxes or a delivery truck, a 4 lb platter can pretty easily reach a weight in motion of 40-80 lbs. Much more weight than the plinth and spindle / bearing were ever designed to handle. Leaving the platter in place will generally result in a bent spindle, warped bearing, busted plinth or a combination of these. We’ll talk about what is done with the platter and rubber mat later. Next if there are any transport screws (not as common on single play turntables as changers, but may still be used) they should be engaged, which usually means turning them counter-clockwise to there “out” position. Some single-play tables may have had transport screws, but they are usually removed for use and subsequently have been lost. Suitable replacements should be found and installed unless other ways of stabilizing the suspension are available such as the use of shims. On changer / stacker type tables or tables that need their suspension secured, and if the locking screws are not available, then 5” shrink film is used to secure the platter and / or suspension in place (done with dust cover removed). Also on stacker type tables, the long play spindle is removed. If available the “short-play” spindle will be installed prior to the shrink wrap operation as this is a great place to “store” it for shipment. The long-play spindle will be bagged and packed safely on it’s own. The tone-arm is then tied in place in it’s “locked” position with a wire tie. The counter-weight is either then removed and packed separately or held in place by foam. Many styluses and dust-covers are damaged / destroyed by counter-weights flying around inside that were not secured. Next the dust-cover is reinstalled if it had been removed. If there is room between the turntable base and the dust cover then thin “poly-lam” foam is placed in between the two. Next the dust-cover is VERY FIRMLY secured in place with shrink film from every direction. Once sealed down the turntable and dustcover becomes a solid unit. No motion is allowed.

Next, our tables are always, housed in a 2" sheet foam "box" that fits exactly. Once the table is sealed and there are no parts inside "rattling around" to break things or scratch the dust cover, it is put into the foam box. On some tables that have suspension built into the feet, small depressions need to be "dug" in to the foam where the feet are, so that the tables weight is not on them for shipping. The internal suspension is not sufficient for this. Any "play" or space inside the foam box, will be filled with foam or bubble wrap. Then a top plate of 2", high-density “pink” foam is sealed tight to the rest of the foam box with the stretch film. Prior to that if there's any space between the top of the dustcover and the foam "lid" that should is also filled. We generally use a small sheet of 1/2" bubble wrap to do that. The platter and rubber mat are stretch filmed to the top of the box taking care to make sure the mat is not bent or allowed to bend / wrinkle. The best way to ensure this is to place the mat down first on the box, then cover it with the platter positioned up-side down, to hold it in place. This is then stretch filmed in place on the top of the foam box. Once the foam box is finish packed, it is then suspended inside the outside box, using loose fill (foam peanuts).

We ship about 50-60 tables a year (about 750 units total a year) and have an almost spotless track record. From the "un-scientific" survey we have done from customers calling / emailing for parts / insurance claim amounts on units shipped from amateur sellers, we see about an extremely high failure rate on electronics / tables / reel to reel machines. I have a customer who recently ordered 10 tables (mostly from all different sellers) and he said 4 came in undamaged due to inappropriate packaging. The worst thing about this is that the world has lost a lot of really cool vintage gear:-(

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